Iguazu falls: Which Side to Visit?

That’s the big question when you plan to visit Iguazu. The answer ain’t easy and depends a lot on the time you have. I arrived on the Argentinian side, visited the falls there, transferred to Belmond das Cataratas on the Brazilian side and visited the falls there the next day. What’s nice on the Argentinian side is that you get many different viewpoints, but on the other hand you need a lot more time than on the Brazilian side. Main paths are located far from the park’s entrance and you need to take a small train to reach their starting points. Begin with the Devil’s Throat which is at the furthest. You will see it from above, after walking for about 15 minutes on a footbridge set on top of the river. Look down on your way and you may see different animals in the river, like caimans, turtles and fishes. The view from the observation deck is impressive, but the place is crowded… Then take another path to get different views, like the Upper Circuit that meanders through the jungle with many different observation decks towards the falls. Look up to spot beautiful birds (toucans, vultures, condors…). On the Brazilian side it’s different. The path to the falls starts right in front of the Belmond hotel and quickly reaches them. At the end there is a nice footbridge to get close to the falls (and wet). The view of the Devil’s Throat from below is spectacular (and a lot more enjoyable without the crowds!). All in all, if you don’t have a lot of time and want to get a nice touch of the falls I recommend the Brazilian side. But is it worth travelling all the way there and not getting all of it? So allow yourself 2 days in Iguazu, start with the Argentinian side as early as possible on day 1, then spend some relaxing time at the Belmond and proceed on day 2 with the Brazilian side before the national park opens to the public.

Enjoy Iguazu falls, they are just as gorgeous as you can imagine!

Iguazu falls from the plane (landing on the Argentinian side)
Iguazu falls from the plane (landing on the Argentinian side)

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Belmond das Cataratas: the Best Hotel in Iguazu

Iguazu is one of those places where it’s easy to choose your accommodation. Not too many options, and one that’s stands out from the rest: the Belmond das Cataratas. Located on the Brazilian side and within the national park, you get privileged access to the falls before the park opens to the public. Keeping in mind how crowded the falls can get during the day, that’s a very big plus. Don’t bother booking a guided tour of the falls though, it’s unnecessary. Unlike the Argentinian side where you have to choose from many different paths, on the Brazilian side there is only one easy and clearly marked path that starts right in front of the hotel. In my next article I will debate the pros and cons of each side of the falls. But for now let’s focus on the hotel itself.

What I liked:

  • the location right in front of the falls and within the national park
  • the amazing pool (especially at night)
  • the hotel’s very nice tropical garden and its beautiful birds
  • the great breakfast on the poolside (and caipirinhas a bit later)
  • that feeling of serenity and loneliness right next to a highly touristic attraction

What I disliked:

  • the somehow old-fashioned and not so over-the-top rooms (nice bathrooms though)
  • a strange moldy smell in the rooms…!
  • the lack of signalization in the corridors (that place is huge and you get easily lost)
Deckchairs on the poolside, Belmond das Cataratas
Deckchairs on the poolside

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